A weird sizing issue - too much fabric in the back area

  • I have found that in some (most) of my sweaters and cardigans I end up having too much fabric in the back.  Some of it can be solved with waist shaping - I have a classic hourglass figure and I am always aware of the garment being to snug around my hips.  But I still have excess fabric between my shoulder blades and it just adds bulk.  Sometimes this shows up around my arm holes too, adding an unattractive fold.  
    One thing that occurred to me is that maybe I am choosing a size too large to knit.  Going by my actual bust measurement rather than bra size - eg bra size maybe a 36C but bust measurement is 37.5"

    Does anyone have any tips?  How could I add a little more fabric so the garment doesnt fit skintight over my bust area but fits well in the back? 

    my fav fit so far has been the Floozy by Libby Jonson - none of those issues there.  Perhpas my answer lies in really anaysing her pattern LOL!  But hoping for an easier way.....

    Thanking people in advanceđź’•

  • Patti - you should check out Amy Herzog. This is exactly where she specializes. You can add darts! Yes darts! They will give you a bit more room in the front without affecting the back. And yes you are right - it's your actual bust measurement you should be looking at, not your bra size. There is also an upper chest measurement that you should consider - also from Amy's book and videos. She actually measures the upper chest with the measuring tape going around right under the underarm. She then calculates how much ease you want over the bust depending on the fit you want: tight, just fitting, or loose. 

    You can also to the opposite - remove fabric with darts on the back. 

  • Thanks Kim.  Will check out Amy Herzog's site for sure.

  • @Patti Waterfield I have knit a couple sweaters using Amy's custom fit sweaters.   They are great.   The measurements need to be accurate.  Once you have your measurements, the computer program prints out a pattern for your gauge, yarn and measurements.   I loved knitting the sweater.   It has been a favorite sweater because it fits me perfectly

  • @Sheila Sakraida thank you.  I will check her out.

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